Camino De Santiago, Spain
By now I’ve gone on quite a few adventures in nearly a dozen different countries, but I wanted to do a something truly challenging. Something that would be both rewarding and adventurous, something that I could look back on and be proud of. So after some research I stumbled upon the Camino De Santiago; a series of trails across Spain that both trekkers and religious pilgrims alike journey on to reach the beautiful city of Santiago. After seeing photos of the trails and binging hours of YouTube I originally planned on taking on the Camino Del Norte; a challenging mountainous trail that follows the northern coast of Spain. Eventually I would link up with the much easier and more popular Camino Frances, a trail that mainly goes through Central Spain. Little did I know this journey would become one of the most rewarding experiences of my life, a journey full of ups and downs, injury and triumph, failure and success. This is my experience on the Camino De Santiago.
I started the trail in Portugalete, a small suburb of Bilbao, Spain. I didn’t quite know what I was in for when I started the trail. I knew the Norte was a challenging trail, and since I was starting earlier in the trekking season I knew the possibility of towns being quieter than usual, and lodging potentially being closed or having the wrong hours listed. Regardless, I wanted to do the Norte because of its location; Northern Spain. Sheer cliffs that drop into the Atlantic Ocean, small coastal towns, and lush farm valleys. The trail started off simple enough, following alongside a major highway and eventually splitting off into the countryside towards my first coastal town of the trip; Pobeña. Pobeña was a quiet, beautiful beach town, but I got there so quick I decided to push through and continue on to the next town.
The main route along the water was blocked off my a landslide, so I took a detour up a nearby hill and got the best views of the ocean I’ve had yet! Fortunately, I followed these coastal views for most of the day and loved every minute of it. Today’s goal became reaching Castro Urdiales, another coastal town where I would stay at the public albergue; a hostel just for those walking the Camino. I was excited to finish my first day on the trail and give my body a rest, I knew tomorrow would be another challenging but beautiful day.
After a mediocre night of sleep I woke up sore but excited to start my second day on the trail. I started walking as the sun rose over the countryside with glimpses of the ocean from on top the hills I was hiking. Eventually, I walked through the most beautiful goat pasture I’ve ever seen and continued along the coast until I split off back in to the countryside.
Unfortunately this is where things started going bad. In front of me was a huge mountain which ended up taking me hours to cross over, I dropped into a valley on the other side only to be met with another mountain… A mountain which ended up injuring me just two days into my journey. A rush of emotions overwhelmed me; failure, sadness, anger, frustration. Was this how my trip would end already? I limped into town in defeat and found a private room for a couple nights where I could recover. I had to reset and figure out how I could salvage this trip, I didn’t want to give up, but I knew if I pushed myself on the Norte again like I did these first two days I might never make it to the end.
After talking with the family and enjoying a private shower and room for the night I made a plan for the rest of the trail. My mom suggested I take a bus to some towns I really wanted to go to along the coast, and then pick up the trail again to do the last 100km, which is the minimum requirement to officially finish the trail and earn your Compostela from the church. With this new plan in mind I enjoyed my last day in Laredo and prepared to travel by bus the following day. Laredo was a small town on the coast bustling with seafood restaurants and cafes, a lot of locals and some great street art. I enjoyed the best meal of my trip so far and found an awesome spot to sit by the ocean and get in the right headspace.
After some rest much needed rest I decided to continue my journey to restart the trail in Sarria. However, before I go to Sarria I wanted to make a few stops in the cities of Gijon, Leon, and Lugo. Gijon was a beautiful city on the northern coast of Spain and the last view of the ocean I was going to enjoy in Spain. I stayed at a wonderful hostel right on the waterfront called Boogalow. Super clean, friendly, and the best views of the water I’ve had on my trip. I explored the colorful alleyways of the historic district and enjoyed the evening sitting on the beach enjoying the last bit of salt air.
I was sad to leave the coast, but so grateful for the incredible views of the Camino Del Norte. I continued on to Leon; home to the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen in my life. I was literally in awe of the beauty of the cathedral. Leon was a small amazing city to explore and Juan, the owner of Convent Garden Hostel, was one of the coolest guys I’ve met on the trip so far. Once a pilgrim himself his dream was to open a hostel, and now, it’s one of the best places to stop on the Camino Frances.
With some amazing memories, and new friends made, I headed to Lugo. This would be the last stop before I restart the trail on the Camino Frances and finish the last 100km! I was met with a lot of rain, but I pushed through and explored the city center so I could walk the medieval wall that surrounds the town and see the beautiful cathedral! I enjoyed one last private room and prepared myself to restart the walk in Sarria. I knew the last 100km was going to be a challenge, but with renewed spirit, and the love and support from my family and friends, I knew I could do it!
Day 1 back on the trail! I left Sarria at sunrise and surprisingly ran into dozens of other trekkers. A much different experience than the Norte; which usually felt like a ghost town. I made my way through the beautiful Spanish countryside eventually dropping down into a valley where I would reach my first stop: Portomarin. This cozy lakeside town was a welcome sight after nearly 13 miles of walking! I met some really cool people at the hostel and got talked into heading to the local church to see a one man show. I was really glad I said yes because this man was crazy skilled. Opera, flute, organ; he really could do it all! I enjoyed a delicious local meal and watched the sunset from the front of the hostel as I called it a night and prepared myself for day 2.
Day 2 on the trail started off early again. I headed into the countryside through thick fog and lots of trekkers. Eventually, I stopped an hour outside of my next stop to have lunch and rest my feet. I quickly learned that potato omelette was one of my new favorite meals in Spain and enjoyed a nice rest before making my last push to the tiny town of Ligonde. When I say tiny, I mean tiny. Cows being herded down the street, no WiFi, no grocery, and no shops. Luckily the place I was staying at had plenty of snacks and refreshments for everyone! Albergue La Fuente del Perrigrino is run by a group of volunteers from a baptist church in Barcelona. They converted a traditional Spanish home into a albergue where they care for weary pilgrims and offer refreshments and services to anyone who stops by, no questions asked. It was a really cool experience, and I loved my time with the volunteers and other hikers. We were treated to a homemade meal and desert. This paired with a table full of conversation was a great way to end the day. However, since it was a traditional Spanish house every step was creaks and cracks! This made for a pretty miserable night of sleep… but with a full stomach and new memories made I prepared myself for day 3 on the trail.
I had a sleepy start to day 3 on the trail, but headed off into another fog filled morning towards the town of Melide. Melide was a quiet town, and the hostel was surprisingly quiet. I used this easy day to catch up on laundry and get an early nights sleep! Before I went to sleep I finally got my first paella; delicious! I woke up on day 4 feeling rough. I slept great, but have developed a pretty crappy cough. Regardless, I packed my bag and pushed on to Arzua. I was grateful for another short hiking day, although the trail was short, I continued to wonder through beautiful countryside and an array of tiny villages.
Day 5 started off with an even worse cough and a very tired mindset. As if the trail wasn’t difficult enough, now I have to finish it sick and coughing. Fortunately, this would be the last stop on the trail before I reached Santiago! I pushed on through my last bit of real countryside and treated myself to a private room in the town of Pedrouzo. It was nice to have another early day and end up in a town where I could get some nice food, medicine, and some good sleep. Tomorrow I make the final push!
My alarm went off at 5:30am and I was out the door before 6. This was it! The final push to Santiago. After all of my days suffering on the trail, all the injuries and illnesses, the freezing mornings and sleepless nights, it was all finally coming to an end! I headed off into the darkness, barely able to see the trail, but determined to reach Santiago today. Let me tell you, those last 13 miles or so were the longest miles of my life. The morning felt like it wasn’t moving, and every step felt like an inch instead of a foot. I tried to get my mind right, finish strong, and feel motivated to make the best of it; but I was exhausted. I continued to head up and over the hills pushing ever so closer to the final steps of the cathedral in Santiago. I think it finally started when I stopped at the Pilgrims Monument and saw the top of the cathedral in the distance. Finally; a small sense of relief. I pulled out my shell and stone to say a quick prayer and leave them at the monument. The shell is an iconic symbol of the Camino De Santiago, and a badge of honor for many weary travelers on the trail. This shell was given to me by my mom from my favorite beach in NC; Kure Beach. The stone was from my sister Shannon’s garden at the house. My sister passed away quite awhile ago, however I often think of her while traveling, and always feel safe knowing she’s watching my back. After a quick prayer and thanks to Shannon for getting me through the trail I left the pieces there, forever signifying that I have come to a close on my journey across Spain. I continued into town, with a new found sense of excitement and motivation! Time to finish strong, once and for all.
It’s very hard to describe my initial feeling when I reached the end. The longest morning yet seemed to end in an instant. At first I didn’t now how to feel. I didn’t break down crying, I didn’t cheer, or jump for joy. I just kinda felt this wave come over me. As a great weight was lifted from my shoulders. I just sat there starring at the cathedral, amazed and relieved this journey had finally come to an end. After some photos I FaceTimed my Mom; that’s when the water works really started. All it took was a familiar face to connect to. Someone who I love that can understand my emotions at the end of such a journey. It was amazing I got to experience it with her, and am forever grateful for all of the support I have received from my family and friends. I’m truly a lucky man and am forever grateful for the amazing people I surround myself with. I did it! I reached the end! I officially completed the last 100km of the Camino de Santiago, along with two extra days of hiking the Camino del Norte.
My final thoughts on the Camino:
Is it worth it? Absolutely yes. Although the trail is very challenging both mentally and physically, the feeling of success at the end is beyond words. The countryside is absolutely stunning, the people are so nice, and you’ll meet some incredible characters along the way and share stories with travelers from around the world.
Would I do it again or complete the entire route instead? Absolutely not. Although I encourage those looking to challenge themselves, I will never do another Camino, and have no motivation to continue the entire trail. I’m glad I did it, but I have nothing to prove by doing another trail or tackling the entire section from one coast to another. I’m happy with what I’ve accomplished and would love to instead focus on trekking in Nepal or tackling trails back home stateside. I’m looking forward to the next challenge.
Overall the Camino is something I’ve accomplished that I will never forget. The trials and tribulations made the taste of success so much sweeter at the end. I enjoyed most of it, even if I was injured and ill quite of bit of the journey. For me it’s good to be humbled once in a while, and for the Camino, well… it humbled me. It’s motivated me to continue my travels abroad and continue to work on myself both physically and mentally. If you would like to follow my journey on the Camino I documented on YouTube check out ‘Adventures of an Expat’, the channel I hope to start growing over the summer! Thank you again for all the love and support and look forward to many more blogs being published this summer!
